Progression Through Climbing Grades
Learn how to advance through climbing grades effectively, including when to update your shoe selection to match your evolving skills.
In This Guide
Understanding Climbing Grades
Image prompt: "Infographic showing various climbing grade scales side by side (V Scale, YDS, Font, UIAA, French) with equivalent difficulties clearly marked. Include visual representations of the technical movements and strength required at different grade ranges."
Climbing grades provide a relative measure of difficulty, though they can be subjective and vary between climbing areas and styles.
Common Grading Systems
Bouldering Grades
- V Scale (Hueco) - Most common in North America, ranging from VB (beginner) to V17
- Font Scale - Used in Europe, ranging from 3 to 9A+
Roped Climbing Grades
- Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) - Standard in North America, ranging from 5.0 to 5.15d
- French Scale - Common in Europe, ranging from 1 to 9c
- UIAA Scale - Used in some European countries, ranging from I to XII
What Grades Really Mean
Grades are guidelines, not absolute measures. They can vary based on:
- Location - "Sandbagged" areas may feel harder than the given grade
- Style - A route might feel harder if it doesn't match your strengths
- Conditions - Temperature, humidity, and rock type all affect difficulty
- Body type - Height, reach, and flexibility can make certain moves easier or harder
Use grades as a rough guide for progression, but focus more on developing skills than "collecting" grades.
Beginner Progression (VB-V2 / 5.5-5.9)
Image prompt: "A beginner climber demonstrating proper technique on a vertical wall with large, positive holds. Show split screen of recommended beginner climbing shoes with focus on comfort and flat profiles. Include annotations pointing out key movement principles for beginners."
Focus Areas for Beginners
- Fundamental movement patterns - Learn to move efficiently on the wall
- Basic footwork - Develop precise foot placement
- Balance and body positioning - Understand how to position your body for stability
- Grip techniques - Learn different ways to hold various types of holds
- Endurance building - Develop the stamina to complete longer routes
Beginner Shoe Recommendations
At this stage, prioritize comfort and support over aggressive performance features.
Key Shoe Features for Beginners:
- Flat profile - Easier on your feet while you develop strength
- Neutral last - Less painful than downturned shoes
- Stiffer midsole - Provides support while you develop foot strength
- Roomier fit - Slightly more comfortable than performance shoes
- Durable rubber - Will hold up as you develop proper footwork
Recommended Beginner Shoes:
- La Sportiva Tarantulace/Tarantula
- Scarpa Origin
- Black Diamond Momentum
- Five Ten Kirigami
- Evolv Defy/Nighthawk
When to Progress Your Shoes
Consider upgrading your climbing shoes when:
- You've been climbing consistently for 6+ months
- You're comfortable on most 5.9 routes or V2 boulder problems
- Your footwork has improved significantly (less dragging and slipping)
- You're starting to feel limited by your shoes' lack of precision
- You want to start working more technical routes with smaller footholds
Progression Tip: At this stage, volume is key. Climb as much as possible across different styles and angles to build a foundation of movement skills before focusing on harder grades.
Intermediate Progression (V3-V5 / 5.10-5.11)
Image prompt: "An intermediate climber on a slightly overhanging wall using technical footwork on smaller holds. Show comparison of moderate climbing shoes with their key features labeled. Include visual indicators of the technical skills being employed - flagging, drop knee, and efficient movement patterns."
Focus Areas for Intermediate Climbers
- Route reading - Develop ability to plan sequences before climbing
- Advanced footwork - Master flagging, drop-knees, and high steps
- Movement efficiency - Reduce unnecessary movements and conserve energy
- Targeted strength - Begin specific training for climbing-related strength
- Mental game - Work on focus and managing fear or anxiety
Intermediate Shoe Recommendations
At this level, you'll benefit from more technical shoes that offer better precision and performance.
Key Shoe Features for Intermediates:
- Moderately downturned - More power and precision on smaller holds
- Semi-asymmetric last - Focuses power to the big toe for precision
- Medium stiffness - Balance of support and sensitivity
- Snugger fit - Less comfort but more performance
- Higher quality rubber - Better grip for more technical climbing
Recommended Intermediate Shoes:
- La Sportiva Miura VS/Otaki
- Scarpa Vapor V/Instinct VS
- Five Ten Anasazi
- Tenaya Oasi
- Black Diamond Zone
When to Progress Your Shoes Again
Consider moving to more advanced shoes when:
- You're consistently climbing 5.11+ routes or V5+ boulder problems
- You're working on overhanging or very technical terrain
- Your shoes feel limiting on specific types of moves (heel hooks, toe hooks)
- You've developed foot strength and can handle more aggressive shoes
- You want to specialize in a particular style of climbing
Specialized Shoes for Different Disciplines
At the intermediate level, you might consider having multiple pairs for different styles:
- Technical face climbing - Stiffer, supportive shoes with good edging capabilities
- Overhanging sport routes - More downturned shoes with good heel tension
- Crack climbing - Flatter, supportive shoes with durable uppers
- Indoor training - Comfortable shoes that can be worn for longer sessions
Progression Tip: At this stage, focus on weaknesses. Identify the types of moves or terrain that challenge you most and spend dedicated time working on them.
Advanced Progression (V6+ / 5.12+)
Image prompt: "An advanced climber on a severely overhanging wall demonstrating dynamic movement and complex body positions. Show examples of aggressive performance climbing shoes with specialized features. Include split screen of different training methods like hangboarding, campus boarding, and system training."
Focus Areas for Advanced Climbers
- Power and power endurance - Develop explosive strength and ability to sustain it
- Project-specific training - Tailor training to target specific weaknesses
- Advanced technique - Master dynamic movement, momentum, and complex sequences
- Mental fortitude - Develop strategies for hard redpoints and high-pressure situations
- Recovery optimization - Learn how to train hard while avoiding injury
Advanced Shoe Recommendations
At the advanced level, performance features and specialization become crucial for pushing grades.
Key Shoe Features for Advanced Climbers:
- Aggressive downturn - Maximum power on steep terrain and small holds
- Highly asymmetric last - Extreme precision on tiny footholds
- Specialized rubber - Matched to specific types of climbing
- Performance-oriented fit - Often quite tight and conformed to foot
- Specialized features - Enhanced heel cups, toe patches for modern techniques
Recommended Advanced Shoes:
- La Sportiva Solution/Theory
- Scarpa Drago/Chimera
- Five Ten Hiangle/Dragon
- Tenaya Iati/Oasi
- Unparallel Up Mocc/Leopard
Shoe Specialization at Advanced Levels
Most advanced climbers maintain a quiver of specialized shoes:
- Competition/Bouldering shoes - Extremely soft, sensitive, aggressive
- Technical face shoes - Stiff, precise, with excellent edging
- Steep terrain shoes - Downturned with generous heel and toe rubber
- Multi-pitch/Trad shoes - Comfortable enough for all-day wear but still performant
- Training shoes - Durable shoes that save your best pairs for important sends
Knowing When to Switch Shoes During Projects
At the advanced level, climbers often select specific shoes for specific routes or even change shoes for different sections of a climb:
- Stiffer shoes for technical vertical sections with small edges
- Softer, more sensitive shoes for slab sections requiring maximum friction
- Aggressively downturned shoes for steep, overhanging sections
- Shoes with specific heel or toe features for routes with those specific techniques
Progression Tip: At this stage, metrics and tracking become important. Keep a detailed training log, measure your progress, and develop long-term training cycles to peak for important projects.
Training Methods for Grade Progression
Image prompt: "A comprehensive training plan for climbers showing different training modalities: hangboarding for finger strength, campus board for power, system wall for movement patterns, and antagonist exercises for injury prevention. Include a sample periodized training schedule showing how to structure climbing training through different phases."
Foundational Training Principles
No matter your level, these principles will help you progress more efficiently:
- Specificity - Train movements and intensities similar to your goals
- Progressive overload - Gradually increase difficulty to drive adaptation
- Varied stimulus - Incorporate different training methods to prevent plateaus
- Recovery - Allow adequate rest between hard sessions
- Consistency - Regular, sustained training is more effective than occasional intense sessions
Training Methods by Level
For Beginners (VB-V2 / 5.5-5.9):
- Volume climbing - Focus on mileage to build movement patterns
- Technical drills - Silent feet, straight-arm climbing, hover hands
- Basic strength - Pull-ups, core exercises, general fitness
- Rest day activities - Flexibility work, antagonist training
For Intermediates (V3-V5 / 5.10-5.11):
- Limit bouldering - Working at your max level to develop power
- 4x4s and intervals - Building power endurance
- Hangboarding - Basic protocols to develop finger strength
- Targeted weakness training - Identify and address specific weaknesses
For Advanced Climbers (V6+ / 5.12+):
- Periodized training - Structured cycles focusing on different aspects
- Campus boarding - Power development for experienced climbers
- Specialized fingerboard protocols - Max hangs, repeaters, one-arm work
- Tactical periodization - Timing peaks for specific projects or competitions
Breaking Through Plateaus
Most climbers experience plateaus. Here are strategies to overcome them:
- Change your focus - If you've been projecting, try volume; if you've been doing volume, try projects
- Cross-training - Try a different climbing discipline (bouldering vs. routes)
- Take a step back - Sometimes a short break or focus on fun climbing helps
- Get feedback - Have an experienced climber or coach watch you climb
- Address weaknesses - Often plateaus come from avoiding what we're bad at
Mental Training for Progression
Mental barriers often hold climbers back more than physical ones:
- Visualization - Mentally rehearse sequences for better execution
- Positive self-talk - Replace limiting thoughts with constructive ones
- Process goals - Focus on execution rather than just sending
- Fear management - Systematically address fears through gradual exposure
- Arousal control - Learn to manage energy levels for optimal performance
Key Takeaways for Climbing Progression
- 1.Technique trumps strength - At every level, technical proficiency is more important than raw power.
- 2.Progressive shoe selection - Match your footwear to your skill level and climbing style.
- 3.Balanced training - Address weaknesses while continuing to develop strengths.
- 4.Patience and consistency - Gradual, sustained progress is more effective than sporadic intense efforts.
- 5.Enjoyment matters - Find joy in the process, not just in achieving grades.