Essential Climbing Techniques

Proper body positioning is the foundation of efficient climbing. The goal is to maintain your center of gravity over your feet while keeping your body balanced and stable.

The Fundamentals of Body Position

• Keep your hips close to the wall - This reduces strain on your arms and puts more weight on your feet.
• Maintain three points of contact - When moving, keep at least three limbs in contact with the wall for stability.
• Use your skeleton, not your muscles - Position your body so your bones, not your muscles, bear the load whenever possible.
• Look with your hips - Your hips should face the direction you're moving. Turn them to face holds you're reaching for.

The Triangle Base

Think of your body as forming a triangle with the wall. Your feet create the base of the triangle, and your center of gravity should stay within this base for maximum stability.

Rest Positions

Learning to find and use rest positions is crucial for conserving energy:

• Drop knee position - Turn one foot outward and drop the corresponding knee inward to create a stable resting stance.
• Egyptian/side-on position - Position your body side-on to the wall with one hip in close contact.
• Chimney rest - Use opposing pressure between limbs (or your back) and the wall to create a stable position where you can shake out your arms.

Good footwork is perhaps the most important skill in climbing. Your legs are stronger than your arms and should do most of the work of moving you up the wall.

Basic Foot Placement Techniques

Edging

Edging involves using the edge of your climbing shoe on small holds. There are several edging techniques:

• Inside edge - Using the inside edge of your shoe (the big toe side).
• Outside edge - Using the outside edge (the little toe side).
• Front point - Using just the tip of your toe for very small holds.

For all edging techniques, focus on precision placement and maximize the rubber contact on the hold.

Smearing

Smearing is pressing the sole of your shoe against the wall when there aren't distinct footholds. Keys to effective smearing:

• Maximize rubber contact with the surface
• Apply downward pressure through your foot
• Keep your weight over the smear
• Clean your shoes regularly for better friction

Heel Hook

A heel hook involves placing your heel on a hold and pulling with your hamstring muscles. This technique:

• Provides stability and counterbalance
• Reduces arm strain
• Can help with traversing or overhanging sections

Toe Hook

The toe hook uses the top of your foot to pull on a hold. This advanced technique:

• Creates tension and stability in overhangs
• Helps maintain body position on steep terrain
• Can provide a crucial third point of contact

Footwork Practice Tips

• Silent feet - Practice placing your feet as quietly as possible to develop precision.
• Hover - Before placing your foot, hover it over the target hold for a second to ensure accurate placement.
• Foot-first climbing - Try climbing routes where you place your feet first, then hands, to build foot-focused techniques.

Understanding different types of handholds and how to grip them efficiently is essential for climbing success and injury prevention.

Common Grip Types

Open Hand Grip

The open hand grip is the safest grip for your tendons and should be your default whenever possible.

• Fingers are relaxed and slightly curved
• Less strain on finger tendons
• Good for larger, rounded holds
• Less power than crimping but safer long-term

Half Crimp

The half crimp positions your fingers at approximately 90-degree angles, balancing power and safety.

• Fingers form roughly 90° angles at joints
• Thumb is not used over fingers
• More power than open hand, less dangerous than full crimp
• Good training position for finger strength

Full Crimp

The full crimp is the most powerful grip but also puts the most strain on your tendons and should be used sparingly.

• Fingers are severely bent
• Thumb wraps over fingertips for added force
• Highest risk for injury
• Save for crux moves or when absolutely necessary

Pinch Grip

The pinch grip uses opposition between fingers and thumb to hold onto protruding features.

• Squeeze hold between fingers and thumb
• Engages different muscles than other grips
• Particularly useful for side-pulls and arêtes

Sloper Grip

Slopers are rounded holds with few features that rely on friction and body positioning.

• Maximize hand contact with the surface
• Keep arms straight to reduce muscle engagement
• Position your body to increase downward pressure on the hold
• Climbing in cooler, drier conditions improves sloper friction

Hand Placement Principles

• Use the minimum necessary force - Gripping too hard wastes energy and leads to pumped forearms.
• Match grip to hold - Different holds call for different grip types.
• Engage your fingers progressively - Start with your hand open and gradually engage your fingers.
• Keep wrists neutral when possible - Extreme wrist positions can strain tendons.

Efficient movement is what separates great climbers from good ones. It's about conserving energy, moving with intention, and finding rhythm in your climbing.

Dynamic vs. Static Movement

Static Movement

Static movement involves maintaining control and balance throughout the entire movement, with no momentum.

• Slow, controlled movements
• Three points of contact maintained
• Good for technical face climbing and slab
• Builds precise body positioning skills

Dynamic Movement

Dynamic moves use momentum to reach holds that would be difficult to reach statically.

• Generates momentum to reach distant holds
• Reduces time spent in energy-intensive positions
• Essential for certain bouldering problems and overhanging routes
• Ranges from controlled dynos to all-out lunges

Counterbalance Techniques

Flagging

Flagging is using one leg as a counterbalance to maintain stability when reaching.

• Back flag - Crossing your free leg behind your supporting leg
• Side flag - Extending your free leg to the side
• Front flag - Crossing your free leg in front of your supporting leg

Bicycle/Drop Knee

The drop knee or bicycle position uses body tension and opposing forces to maintain balance.

• Turn one foot so the inside edge presses on a hold
• Drop the same-side knee inward and downward
• Creates stability and can provide reach advantages

Energy Conservation Principles

• Use straight arms - Hanging with straight arms uses less energy than bent arms.
• Rest whenever possible - Find stable positions where you can shake out one arm at a time.
• Breathe rhythmically - Conscious breathing helps prevent tension and conserves energy.
• Plan your sequence - Look ahead and plan moves to avoid inefficient repositioning.
• Climb in motion - Continuous, fluid movement is more efficient than stop-and-go climbing.

Different climbing terrain requires specialized techniques. Mastering these will expand the range of routes you can climb successfully.

Slab Climbing Techniques

Slab climbing involves less-than-vertical terrain with often minimal holds.

• High feet - Bringing your feet up higher reduces the strain on your arms and improves balance.
• Small weight shifts - Subtle weight shifts can make a big difference in friction and balance.
• Use micro-features - Tiny bumps and dimples can provide crucial friction.
• Core tension - Maintaining core tension keeps your weight over your feet.
• Trust your feet - Mental confidence in your footwork is essential on slabs.

Overhanging and Steep Climbing

Steep walls require specific techniques to maintain body position and conserve energy.

• Keep feet on - Cutting feet wastes energy; try to maintain foot contact when possible.
• Heel and toe hooks - Essential for creating stability and reducing arm strain.
• Bicycle/drop knee - Particularly useful on steep terrain for stability.
• Maintain core tension - Engaged core prevents swinging and keeps you close to the wall.
• Rest in stable positions - Find positions where you can shake out one arm at a time.

Crack Climbing Techniques

Crack climbing has its own specialized set of techniques based on the width of the crack.

• Finger cracks - Use finger locks with your fingers stacked inside the crack.
• Hand cracks - Form a hand jam by tucking your thumb against your palm and expanding your hand.
• Fist cracks - Create a fist inside the crack and twist to create opposition.
• Off-width cracks - Too wide for fists but too narrow for full body; requires specialized arm bars and chicken wings.
• Chimneys - Use opposing pressure with your back, feet, and hands on both sides of the crack.

Corner and Dihedral Techniques

Corners or dihedrals offer unique climbing opportunities with opposing walls.

• Stemming - Pressing feet against opposing walls to create stability.
• Double edging - Using both inside and outside edges of your shoes on opposite walls.
• Three-point stance - Using two feet and one hand or two hands and one foot against opposing surfaces.